If
you need a new pressure cap to use on expansion tank on your Sonett V4 you may have found that it is difficult to find a suitable one. To find one that keeps the system pressurised and then opens at the approriate pressure can be a hassle. The best option seems to be the Stant 10205 radiator cap.
http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/sonett/index.html?bID=3909
This blog is mostly made as a reference for myself to remember different web site addresses and procedures etc. But I also hope it can be to some help for other Saab V4 owners.
onsdag 3. september 2014
Saab Sonett V4 (1968-1969) radiator cap / expansion tank cap
tirsdag 1. oktober 2013
Online retailers of Saab Sonett V4 parts
Where to buy Saab Sonett V4 parts:
Some specific parts:
Water temperature sensor: http://www.saabits.com/engine/saab-v4-99-90-900-9000-engine-temperature-sensor
Solex 28/32 PDSIT Carburetor repar kits: http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/engine/fuel-mixture-formation/carburettorsystem/repair-kit-carburettor-28-32-pdsit/1029390/
http://www.subrew.com/jackashcraft/saabkits.html
Windshield and rear window gasket and lock strip: http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/StoreFront.bok
Expansion tank pressure cap: http://www.oemsaabparts.com/OEMParts/saab-149/7/7803463.html
4lbs stant cap: http://www.partsgeek.com/jqgd15n-saab-sonett-radiator-cap.html?utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=dc&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=1968+Saab+Sonett+Radiator+Cap+-+Stant+10208
Front indicator glasses for Sonett: Same as the front indicator glasses on a MG 1100! (MGA MG 1100 1300 FRONT INDICATOR LUCAS L632 ) Check ebay: http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=+LUCAS+L632+&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Lots of different classic Saab parts:
http://markashcraft.com/parts/ (incl. weather strips!)
http://www.thesaabsite.com/96/
http://www.veteranshop.se/
http://www.rbmperformance.com/lng_EN_srub_5_p_1v2-saab-95-96-oldies-saab-spare-parts-parts-for-saabs-brand-new-.html
Generel information about parts:
Classic Saab parts numbers: http://www.vintagesaabclub.org/articles.html
Saab Sonett colors: http://temp.saabklubben.nu/farger/farger.shtml
Saab Sonett chassis color (RAL 7016): http://forum.saabklubben.se/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=5623&p=27764&hilit=f%C3%A4rg#p27764
Restauring a Sonett: http://hem.bredband.net/saabsidan/950.htm
Some specific parts:
Water temperature sensor: http://www.saabits.com/engine/saab-v4-99-90-900-9000-engine-temperature-sensor
Solex 28/32 PDSIT Carburetor repar kits: http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/engine/fuel-mixture-formation/carburettorsystem/repair-kit-carburettor-28-32-pdsit/1029390/
http://www.subrew.com/jackashcraft/saabkits.html
Windshield and rear window gasket and lock strip: http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/StoreFront.bok
Expansion tank pressure cap: http://www.oemsaabparts.com/OEMParts/saab-149/7/7803463.html
4lbs stant cap: http://www.partsgeek.com/jqgd15n-saab-sonett-radiator-cap.html?utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=dc&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=1968+Saab+Sonett+Radiator+Cap+-+Stant+10208
Front indicator glasses for Sonett: Same as the front indicator glasses on a MG 1100! (MGA MG 1100 1300 FRONT INDICATOR LUCAS L632 ) Check ebay: http://www.ebay.ie/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=+LUCAS+L632+&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Lots of different classic Saab parts:
http://markashcraft.com/parts/ (incl. weather strips!)
http://www.thesaabsite.com/96/
http://www.veteranshop.se/
http://www.rbmperformance.com/lng_EN_srub_5_p_1v2-saab-95-96-oldies-saab-spare-parts-parts-for-saabs-brand-new-.html
Generel information about parts:
Classic Saab parts numbers: http://www.vintagesaabclub.org/articles.html
Saab Sonett colors: http://temp.saabklubben.nu/farger/farger.shtml
Saab Sonett chassis color (RAL 7016): http://forum.saabklubben.se/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=5623&p=27764&hilit=f%C3%A4rg#p27764
Restauring a Sonett: http://hem.bredband.net/saabsidan/950.htm
Saab 95 / 96 / Sonett V4 DIY guides
Here is a collection of DIY guides found on the Internett for the Saab 95/96/Sonett with the V4 engine.
Changing engine oil: http://arildlangseth.blogspot.no/2013/08/changing-oil-and-oild-filter-on-1968.html
Changing transmission / gear oil:
Replacing the thermostat: http://saabworld.net/f65/saab-v4-engine-theromostat-replacement-135/
Replacing the V4 Balance Shaft Gear: http://www.vsaab.com/html/Articles/Balshaftgear.htm
Lots of guides for the Saab 96 V4 from Steve's workshop:
Remaking the Glovebox
How-to's from vSaab:
Evaluate a Used Transmission
Buy a Two-Stroke SAAB
Buy a SAAB Sonett
Rebuild the Mighty Three
Rebuild Front Suspension
Rebuild Your Sonett's Brakes
Sonett Windshield and Rear Glass Replacement
Sonett Interior Restoration
Improve the V4 Cooling System
Replace the V4 Balance Shaft Gear
Repair That Early Clock
Welding SAAB Floors
Rebuild a Type III Brake Master Cylinder
Remove Your Sonett's Body
SAAB Floorpan Refinishing
Engine Compartment Detailing
Buy a Two-Stroke SAAB
Buy a SAAB Sonett
Rebuild the Mighty Three
Rebuild Front Suspension
Rebuild Your Sonett's Brakes
Sonett Windshield and Rear Glass Replacement
Sonett Interior Restoration
Improve the V4 Cooling System
Replace the V4 Balance Shaft Gear
Repair That Early Clock
Welding SAAB Floors
Rebuild a Type III Brake Master Cylinder
Remove Your Sonett's Body
SAAB Floorpan Refinishing
Engine Compartment Detailing
torsdag 1. august 2013
Changing oil and oil filter on a 1968 Saab Sonett V4
This week I decided that it was time to change the engine oil on my 1968 Saab Sonett V4. Here's a quick step by step guide in case you wonder how to change oil on your Sonett.
The first thing you need to do is to decide which oil to use. I did some research and found that many Saab V4 owners use and recommend the Castrol GTX oil. According to the car's manual the car is to have 10w-40 oil. So I decided to get the semi-syntetic Castrol GTX 10w-40. My advice is to use a quality brand oil and either 15w-40 or 10w-40. You will need under 4 liters.
The next thing you need is a skrew-on oil filter. You can get a genuine Saab filter or a replacement filter. I got a Bosch filter from a local workshop. Here's a list of some possible filters:
Bosch P 7005
Mann Filter W 712/80
Saab 9144445
There are many many other manufacturers to choose from. Be sure that the filter you get has an outer diameter of 76 mm. There are filters out there that the reference charts say will fit that are over 90 mm, but they are too big to fit a Sonett!
The last thing you need to get is a M14 x 1.5 drain plug washer/crusher/gasket/seal or whatever you call it. It should be made of copper, have an inner diameter of 14 mm and an outer diameter of about 20 mm. The thickness may vary, but I guess 1.5 mm is fine.
Now you got all the parts you need. But you will also need a few tools. To remove the drain plug you will need a socket wrench/ratchet and a 19 mm female socket. To remove the oil filter you may need a strap-type oil filter wrench.
Now we are ready to change the motor oil!
First drive the car for 15-20 minutes to get the oil heated up so that it gets thin and flows easy. The oil drain plug is located on the right side of the oil pan at the front of the car and is easy accessible. You don't really need to lift the car or park over a grease pit. Possition your oil tray, which should take at least 4 liters, under the drain. Unscrew the 19 mm drain plug with your socket wrench. Let the oil flow into the tray. Leave the tray under the car and the drain plug out for a while to empty as much as possible of the old oil. In the mean time you can unscrew the oil filter, which is located on the right side of the engine. You may need a strap-type wrench to loosen it. Remember that the oil filter is also filled with oil, so position a smal tray under the oil filter. The filter takes approx 0.3 liters of oil.
Okay, so now the car is drained of oil. Time to get som new oil into the engine! First replace the oil copper washer/crusher with the new one and then screw the drain plug back into the oil pan. I do not know what torque to use, it doesn't even say in the Saab genuine workshop handbook, so you will have to use your feel. It's better to tighten it some more later if you see a small leak, than to overtighten it! Take the new oil filter, dip your index finger in the new oil and lubricate the rubber seal on the oil filter by using the oil on your finger. Screw the oil filter to the engine. When the rubber seal and the engine are in contact, continue screwing the filter half a turn. Then the filter should be tightened enough, but remember to check for oil leak later.
Now fill the engine with oil. The oil filler plug can be found on the top left side of the engine. Fill approx. 3 liters, let the oil sink into the engine and then check the level. Keep on filling untill the oil is over the min mark. Go for a drive, let the oil sink and then check the level again. Top off untill the oil is almost on the max mark. The engine with a new oil filter takes 3.3 liters to reach the max mark. Also remember to check for possible leaks from the drain plug and oil filter. If neccessary, tighten the drain plug and/or filter.
Some people say that today's modern oils miss some addidatives that are important for old engines. Zinc is often mentioned. If you want, you can get a zinc addidative like ZDDPlus.
Finally a word on the drain plug. Your car may use a different plug, i.e. a plug that needs another tool than mentioned here to be removed. Over the years Saab changed drain plugs and also previous owners may also have changed the drain plug. So check your drain plug and make sure your got the proper tool before you start!
The first thing you need to do is to decide which oil to use. I did some research and found that many Saab V4 owners use and recommend the Castrol GTX oil. According to the car's manual the car is to have 10w-40 oil. So I decided to get the semi-syntetic Castrol GTX 10w-40. My advice is to use a quality brand oil and either 15w-40 or 10w-40. You will need under 4 liters.
The next thing you need is a skrew-on oil filter. You can get a genuine Saab filter or a replacement filter. I got a Bosch filter from a local workshop. Here's a list of some possible filters:
Bosch P 7005
Mann Filter W 712/80
Saab 9144445
There are many many other manufacturers to choose from. Be sure that the filter you get has an outer diameter of 76 mm. There are filters out there that the reference charts say will fit that are over 90 mm, but they are too big to fit a Sonett!
The last thing you need to get is a M14 x 1.5 drain plug washer/crusher/gasket/seal or whatever you call it. It should be made of copper, have an inner diameter of 14 mm and an outer diameter of about 20 mm. The thickness may vary, but I guess 1.5 mm is fine.
Now you got all the parts you need. But you will also need a few tools. To remove the drain plug you will need a socket wrench/ratchet and a 19 mm female socket. To remove the oil filter you may need a strap-type oil filter wrench.
Now we are ready to change the motor oil!
First drive the car for 15-20 minutes to get the oil heated up so that it gets thin and flows easy. The oil drain plug is located on the right side of the oil pan at the front of the car and is easy accessible. You don't really need to lift the car or park over a grease pit. Possition your oil tray, which should take at least 4 liters, under the drain. Unscrew the 19 mm drain plug with your socket wrench. Let the oil flow into the tray. Leave the tray under the car and the drain plug out for a while to empty as much as possible of the old oil. In the mean time you can unscrew the oil filter, which is located on the right side of the engine. You may need a strap-type wrench to loosen it. Remember that the oil filter is also filled with oil, so position a smal tray under the oil filter. The filter takes approx 0.3 liters of oil.
Okay, so now the car is drained of oil. Time to get som new oil into the engine! First replace the oil copper washer/crusher with the new one and then screw the drain plug back into the oil pan. I do not know what torque to use, it doesn't even say in the Saab genuine workshop handbook, so you will have to use your feel. It's better to tighten it some more later if you see a small leak, than to overtighten it! Take the new oil filter, dip your index finger in the new oil and lubricate the rubber seal on the oil filter by using the oil on your finger. Screw the oil filter to the engine. When the rubber seal and the engine are in contact, continue screwing the filter half a turn. Then the filter should be tightened enough, but remember to check for oil leak later.
Now fill the engine with oil. The oil filler plug can be found on the top left side of the engine. Fill approx. 3 liters, let the oil sink into the engine and then check the level. Keep on filling untill the oil is over the min mark. Go for a drive, let the oil sink and then check the level again. Top off untill the oil is almost on the max mark. The engine with a new oil filter takes 3.3 liters to reach the max mark. Also remember to check for possible leaks from the drain plug and oil filter. If neccessary, tighten the drain plug and/or filter.
Some people say that today's modern oils miss some addidatives that are important for old engines. Zinc is often mentioned. If you want, you can get a zinc addidative like ZDDPlus.
Finally a word on the drain plug. Your car may use a different plug, i.e. a plug that needs another tool than mentioned here to be removed. Over the years Saab changed drain plugs and also previous owners may also have changed the drain plug. So check your drain plug and make sure your got the proper tool before you start!
onsdag 26. juni 2013
On gear oil for Saab V4 transmissions (95/96/Sonett)
Most Saab V4 drivers in Europe seem to favour the following two transmission oils for their V4 transmissions:
- Castrol Universal 75w-90
- Quaker State Super Quadrolube 75W SAE 75W
Other recommendations:
Found on www.tomdonneymotors.com, original surce.
AN431
V4
GEAR LUBES
EP 80,
the recommended lubricant for transmission coupled to Saab's two-stroke and V4
engines, has become very difficult to find as most oil companies have switched
to producing multi-weight gear lubes.
What are the alternatives? We
asked some knowledgeable Saab mechanics what they use.
In the
warm climate of Southern California, Bud Clark of J & B Imports still sees
plenty of 96s, 95s and Sonetts. Since
these cars seldom experience temperatures of less than 50 degrees F, his shop
uses Valvoline 80-85-90 weight. J&B customers who want a better lubricant
usually request Bel-Ray 85W Gear Saver, so Bud keeps some on hand. Bel-Ray Gear Saver is designed primarily for
motorcycles, and it can be purchased from motorcycle shops.
Atlanta,
too, is known for warm weather, but the folks at S&J Automotive go with a
lighter weight oil. Chris McPherson says
they fill their V4 gearboxes with Pennzoil 75 weight gear lube, same as they
use in 99 and 900 trannys.
Sports
Car Service in Wilmington, Delaware, also uses a 75 weight -- Super Quadralube by Quaker State. Proprietor Bill Jacobson says 75 wt works
well in the cooler climate where his customers live, but most important is to
change the gear lube every 30,000 miles.
He has customers whose transmissions have lasted over 200,00 miles
thanks to regular fluid changes.
Rick
Parr of Parrformance in Lititz, PA, has his own "witches brew" made
up of one part 90 weight gear lube, to get the extreme pressure (EP)
properties, and two parts 10W-40 engine oil for lower viscosity. Parr shys away from synthetics as they tend
to leak past the seals of older boxes.
Jack
Lawrence at Motor Sport Service in Jamestown, NY, has done a lot of development
on Saabs since the 1960s, especially the Sonetts. He recommends an 80W-90 for summer use, and a
75W for winter. Though he hasn't tried
it, he also says you could possibly run a GP4 or GP5 rated engine oil which
contains high pressure additives.
Lawrence suggests that you add a little silicone to the gear lube as an
anti-foaming agent. Once you have filled
the gearbox, add 4 or 5 drops (a short squirt) of a pure silicone spray such as
Door-Ease. The silicone helps eliminate
foaming in the input shaft area.
West
coast Sonett fanatic Jack Ashcraft uses Amsoil synthetic multi-weight. He says it will quiet a noisy transmission,
particularly one that has been rebuilt from several used boxes. He also warns that due to viscosity, all
transmission seals should be replaced before dumping in a synthetic lubricant.
Saab's
V4 drivetrain service manual (p/n 0290908) recommends "EP-oil SAE
80", but the latest Saab bulletin on lubricants does not show an EP
80. Instead, the V4 is listed with the
99 and 900 manual gearboxes under "EP 75 Wt Gear Oil", Saab p/n 99 00
754.
Manufacturers
contacted about the availability of EP 80 pointed out that a multi-weight gear
lube such as an 80W-90, must have the same flow characteristics as a straight
80 weight under SAE guidelines.
Consequently a multi-weight gear oil with the first number of 80 should
work in a 96 series transmission.
onsdag 2. mai 2012
How to set up ActiSafety ASH-1 Head-Up Display
If you just like me have bought a ActiSafety ASH-1 Head-Up Display from China, and you don't read Chinese, then you might have a problem just like I did. When I got my HUD and installed it in my Porsche Boxster, I soon found out that the HUD read the speed wrong and had to be calibrated. But how? The instruction manual was in friggin Chinese!
My solution was to find the manufacturers Chinese webpage. I ran it through Google translator to see if there was a manual in English, but there was none to be found. But I found the Chinese manual, and by copying the text in the manual, running it through Google translator and finally doing a little tidying up, the instructions to set up the HUD became understandable. Here is what the instructions say:
To enter setup mode:
(1) Switch off HUD power, when it is turned off, press and hold -> key while turning on power to enter the setup state.
(2) The screen display value corresponds to the list:
Screen display value - The corresponding vehicle parameters
1 - Speed sensor signal (options 1 - 16)
2 - Speed correction factor (options 100 - 80)
3 - Tire width
4 - Tires profile
5 - Tire wheel rim size
(Note: tire specifications for the 195/50 R15: tire width / profile and R rim size)
(3) Selection keys <- ->, select the corresponding model parameters.
(4) Use M Button to confirm the storage parameters, and exit.
(5) After setting all the parameters, the HUD can be restarted HUD normally.
Set up instructions:
A. Set the tire specifications (can be found on the tire), and store and exit.
B. Drive the car for some distance, observe the HUD values and the speedometer readings. Set the sensor signal, possible settings 2, 4, 6, 8, ....
The HUD theoretical value should be faster than the speedometer reading by 5-10KMH.
C. Fine-tune the speed reading of the HUD. Factory preset to 91, can be adjusted according to the error size.
Piece of cake. Did it help you? Comments are open.
My solution was to find the manufacturers Chinese webpage. I ran it through Google translator to see if there was a manual in English, but there was none to be found. But I found the Chinese manual, and by copying the text in the manual, running it through Google translator and finally doing a little tidying up, the instructions to set up the HUD became understandable. Here is what the instructions say:
To enter setup mode:
(1) Switch off HUD power, when it is turned off, press and hold -> key while turning on power to enter the setup state.
(2) The screen display value corresponds to the list:
Screen display value - The corresponding vehicle parameters
1 - Speed sensor signal (options 1 - 16)
2 - Speed correction factor (options 100 - 80)
3 - Tire width
4 - Tires profile
5 - Tire wheel rim size
(Note: tire specifications for the 195/50 R15: tire width / profile and R rim size)
(3) Selection keys <- ->, select the corresponding model parameters.
(4) Use M Button to confirm the storage parameters, and exit.
(5) After setting all the parameters, the HUD can be restarted HUD normally.
Set up instructions:
A. Set the tire specifications (can be found on the tire), and store and exit.
B. Drive the car for some distance, observe the HUD values and the speedometer readings. Set the sensor signal, possible settings 2, 4, 6, 8, ....
The HUD theoretical value should be faster than the speedometer reading by 5-10KMH.
C. Fine-tune the speed reading of the HUD. Factory preset to 91, can be adjusted according to the error size.
Piece of cake. Did it help you? Comments are open.
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